Military Land Rover Defender history

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Military Defenders

Land Rover Defender vehicles have been used by many of the world's military forces, including the US in some limited capacity, following experience with the vehicle during the first Gulf War, where US forces found the British Army's vehicles to be more capable and better suited to operation in urban areas and for air-lifting than the Humvee. The British Army has used Land Rovers since the 1950s, as have many countries in the Commonwealth of Nations. The British Army replaced its Series III fleet with One Tens in 1985, with a smaller fleet of Nineties following in 1986. Both used the 2.5-litre naturally aspirated diesel engine. These older vehicles are reaching the end of their service lives, with many being sold onto the civilian market from the late 1990s.

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In 1994 Land Rover created the Defender XD (XD= eXtra Duty) to replace and complement these vehicles. Powered by 300Tdi engines, the XD has a much stronger chassis, with fibre webbing around the welded joints in the chassis and around stress points to massively increase load capacity. The XD was available both in Defender 90 and 110 forms and known to the British Army as Land Rover Wolves. Usually 110-inch (2,794 mm) Soft or Hard Tops, they are used for patrol, communications and supply duties. 90XDs are less common, but are generally ordered as Soft Top or Hard Top vehicles for light liaison and communications. Short-wheelbase vehicles lack the load capacity needed by modern armies, and the increased power of heavy-lift helicopters has made the larger 110s easily air-transportable- a historic advantage of the smaller, lighter 90.
Land Rover offered its "Core" military Defenders with the 300Tdi engine rather than the more powerful but more complicated Td5 engine offered in civilian vehicles. Before the 300Tdi engine was introduced, military Land Rovers were offered with 2.5-litre petrol and diesel engines, as well as the 3.5-litre V8 petrol. Although trials with the Td5 engine proved it to be reliable in battlefield conditions, it was decided that servicing and repairing its electronic control systems should they fail was too complicated and reliant on having diagnostic computers available. Land Rover were also unable to guarantee they could make the Td5 resistant to electro-magnetic interference. The Australian Army also tested the Td5 and found it to be reliable, but was concerned that the extra performance and speed that the engine gave would result in more accidents and vehicle damage on rough tracks when driven by inexperienced drivers, so opted for the older engine as well.
The British police have used Land Rovers (including the Defender) in their service for many years, they are supplied with the entire range from Land Rover itself.

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In 2004 a fleet of 12 Long wheelbase 110 Td5 Land Rovers were produced for the central German Government, varying between 110 Vans, 110 Hi-capacity pick-ups and 110 Station wagons. The German Government did not renew the supply contract after 2006 instead turning to Mercedes for their logistics fleet.
Vehicles produced for the German Government order were produced in metallic grey with white roofs. The electrical installation on these vehicles was a special order and kept "luxury" fittings and fixtures to a bare minimum. Four FFR equipped vehicles were produced to facilitate the VHF radios in service at that time with the German Government and Police authorities. Following the change-over to the Mercedes contract, the German Central Government sold their Td5 fleet.
With 300Tdi production stopping in 2006, Land Rover set up production of a military version of the 4-cylinder Ford Duratorq engine that is also used as a replacement for the Td5 in civilian vehicles.
The British Army's Land Rovers have been the subject of criticism following recent operations in Iraq and Afghanistan. The majority of British Service Land Rovers carry no armour-plating and the composite armoured SNATCH Land Rover (originally designed to withstand small arms fire and hand-launched projectiles as experienced in Northern Ireland) is not immune to the larger roadside bomb and rocket attacks. Some have called for British troops to be equipped with Humvees, or other such vehicles. However, similar criticisms have been levelled at the American vehicle. Other proposals include the South African made RG-31 or similar larger and more heavily armoured trucks or armoured vehicles that provide greater protection.
There have been many rumours about a replacement vehicle type. This is most likely the larger, higher-capacity 4x4 or 6x6 Pinzgauer forward-control vehicle similar to the now disused Land Rover 101 Forward Control, given that the current Land Rover design is also reaching its weight limits due to the increasing amounts of communications and weapons gear used by modern patrol forces.

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Defender 300tdi history and workshop maunual

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        Manuals Defender-300-tdi-workshop-maunual-1997
Defender


The biggest change to the Land Rover came in late 1990, when it became the Land Rover Defender, instead of the Land Rover Ninety or One Ten. This was because in 1989 the company had introduced the Discovery model, requiring the original Land Rover to acquire a name.[4] The Discovery also had a new turbodiesel engine. This was also loosely based on the existing 2.5-litre turbo unit, and was built on the same production line, but had a modern alloy cylinder head, improved turbocharging, intercooling and direct injection. It retained the block, crankshaft, main bearings, cambelt system, and other ancillaries as the Diesel Turbo. The breather system included an oil separator filter to remove oil from the air in the system, thus finally solving the Diesel Turbo's main weakness of re-breathing its own sump oil. The 200Tdi as the new engine was called produced 107 hp (80 kW) and 195 lb·ft (264 N·m) of torque, which was nearly a 25% improvement on the engine it replaced (although as installed in the Defender the engine was de-tuned slightly from its original Discovery 111 hp (83 kW) specification due to changes associated with the turbo position and exhaust routing).[4]

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This engine finally allowed the Defender to cruise comfortably at high speeds, as well as tow heavy loads speedily on hills while still being economical. In theory it only replaced the older Diesel Turbo engine in the range, with the other 4-cylinder engines (and the V8 petrol engine) still being available. However, the Tdi's combination of performance and economy meant that it took the vast majority of sales. Exceptions were the British Army and some commercial operators, who continued to buy vehicles with the 2.5-litre naturally aspirated diesel engine (in the Army's case, this was because the Tdi was unable to be fitted with a 24 volt generator). Small numbers of V8-engined Defenders were sold to users in countries with low fuel costs or who required as much power as possible (such as in Defenders used as fire engines or ambulances).
Along with the 200Tdi engine, the 127's name was changed to the Land Rover Defender 130. The wheelbase remained the same; the new figure was simply a tidying up exercise. More importantly, 130s were no longer built from "cut-and-shut" 110s, but had dedicated chassis built from scratch.
1994 saw another development of the Tdi engine, the 300Tdi. Although the 200Tdi had been a big step forward, it had been essentially a reworking of the old turbocharged diesel to accept a direct injection system. In contrast the 300Tdi was virtually new, despite the same capacity, and both the Defender and the Discovery had engines in the same state of tune, 111 bhp (83 kW), 195 lbf·ft (264 N·m).[4]

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Throughout the 1990s the vehicle attempted to climb more and more upmarket, while remaining true to its working roots. This trend was epitomised by limited-edition vehicles, such as the SV90 in 1992 with roll-over protection cage, alloy wheels and metallic paint and the 50th Anniversary 90 in 1998 equipped with automatic transmission, air conditioning and Range Rover 4.0-litre V8 engine.
A new variant was the Defender 111 Double Cab, featuring a Station Wagon style seating area, with an open pick up back. Although prototypes had been built in the Series days, it was not until the late 1990s that this vehicle finally reached production.
Land Rover South Africa offered a unique Defender during the period the group was owned by BMW. Between 1997 and 2000, the Defender 90 and 110 were offered with a BMW petrol engine alongside the normal Tdi engine. The engine was the BMW M52 2800 cc, straight-six, 24-valve engine as found in the BMW 328i, 528i, 728i and the Z3. Power and torque output for this engine was 142 kW (190 hp) @ 5500 rpm and 280 N·m (207 lb·ft) @ 3500 rpm. This option was offered due to a demand for a petrol-driven alternative to the diesel engine after production of the V8 Defender had ended. The vehicles were built at Rosslyn outside Pretoria. Total production for the 2.8i was 632 Defender 90s and 410 Defender 110s. Early models were not speed-restricted, but later models were limited to 160 km/h.

Changing your oil

Overview: Tools and Materials

Changing your oil regularly is the single best thing you can do to prolong the life of your car's engine. And if you do this simple 20-minute job yourself, you can save money and know that it was done right.

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However, it's not a task for everybody. Most of the job is easy, but you'll probably have to raise your car to get at the drain plug. You'll need a sturdy set of ramps for your car or a floor jack and safety stands designed for your car's weight. Some people have a phobia about getting under their car. If you're one of them, stop here and make an appointment at a lube shop.

Also, before you start, look under the car and make sure you'll be able to get at the filter to remove it. Some makes of cars have awkward setups that make it nearly impossible to get at and remove the filter with ordinary tools. If that's the case, call for an appointment and pay the $30 fee. Check your owner's manual for the vehicle's oil capacity and drain plug location. For most jobs, you'll need 4 or 5 qts. of oil, an oil filter wrench, a box-end wrench the size of your filler plug, a funnel, rags and, of course, a new oil filter appropriate for your car or truck.

Tip: If your car's engine is cold, let the engine run for a few minutes to warm up the oil. This helps loosen the contaminants in the oil so they'll flow out into the drain pan. However, don't try to drain the oil if the engine is hot. Let it cool to avoid burning your hand.

Step 1: Drive onto ramps

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Drive onto ramps

Use ramps or safety stands to hold your car up.

Drive your car onto your ramps, or use an inexpensive floor jack along with a set of jack (safety) stands (not shown). Be sure to set your parking brake. Check the directions that come with the drive-on ramps or jack stands for details, then give the car a good shake from side to side to make sure it's solidly supported. If you use ramps, be sure they won't slide as you drive onto them. We used a rubber mat under the front of the stand and a 2x12 plank to keep the ramps from sliding forward. Have a helper guide you so you don't drive off the ramp.

CAUTION!

Never work under any car using the factory-supplied jack—it's only for changing a flat tire!

Step 2: Drain the old oil

Remove the drain plug

A box end wrench is the best tool for the drain plug.

 Let the oil drain

Pull the plug quickly so the oil doesn't drench your hand. Be sure to reinstall it after draining the oil!

Using a box-end wrench, loosen the drain plug about a half turn. Avoid using an adjustable wrench because it's more likely to slip and eventually ruin the plug head. And remember this memory aid—lefty loosy, righty tighty. Slide the drain pan under the drain plug. Unscrew the plug. When the plug is ready to come out, quickly pull it out of the way. Hold on to the plug so it doesn't drop into the drain pan. Let the oil drain for at least five minutes, then reinstall the plug.

CAUTION!

The oil may be hot! Let a hot engine cool before draining the oil.

Step 3: Unscrew the Oil Filter

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Unscrew the oil filter

Oil filters are sometimes hard to reach. Buy a filter wrench that fits the tight space.

Unscrew the oil filter, using an inexpensive oil filter wrench. If you use the type pictured, make sure it's the right size and configuration. Some wrenches cinch around the filter and turn from the side. Others, like the one shown, fit the bottom of the filter and accept a 3/8-in. drive socket or a wrench. Room to move the tool is the key. Loosen the oil filter by turning counterclockwise. When the filter is loose, use a rag to unscrew it by hand. Be careful! The filter may be full of oil, so place the drain pan under it. Remove the filter and pour any oil into the drain pan. Wipe any old oil or dirt from the filter-mounting surface so the new filter will seal properly, and make sure the old oil filter ring gasket hasn't stuck to the engine.

Step 4: Install the new filter

Lube the gasket

A little oil on the gasket helps the new filter seal properly.

Smear a few drops of clean oil on the new filter's ring gasket. Carefully spin the new filter on by hand. Be sure you don't pick up any dirt from the frame or other parts on the ring gasket as you position the new filter. Spin the filter on clockwise until the gasket seats against the engine. Then turn the filter—by hand—approximately a half turn to fully seat the ring gasket. If you can't get your hand around it firmly because space is tight, use your wrench. Don't overtighten the filter—you may tear the gasket.

Step 5: Add the new oil

 Add the new oil

Add the oil amount specified in the owner's manual.

Check the oil level

Be sure to pull the dipstick and check the oil level when finished.

Locate the engine oil fill hole and clean the area around the fill cap. Using a clean, dry funnel, add the new oil. Don't spill any on the engine. If you do, wipe it up immediately. Note: Refer to your owner's manual for the correct weight, API rating and amount of oil you'll need to add. Replace the oil fill cap, check the oil level on the dipstick (it may be slightly over the mark until you run the engine) and start the engine. Be sure the garage door is open so exhaust fumes can escape. Check the oil pressure gauge for the proper pressure reading or be certain the oil light on the instrument cluster is off. Look under the car for leaks. Lower the car and recheck the dipstick level to make sure the oil is up to the full mark.

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Pour old oil in a jug for recycling.

Proper Oil Disposal

Pour the used oil back into oil bottles (a rather messy job) or into an old container. Don't put the container out with the regular trash. Used motor oil is hazardous waste and must be disposed of properly. In many states, retail outlets that sell motor oil must accept used oil for recycling. If your store doesn't take back used oil, check with a repair shop, because many shops will dispose of used oil. Otherwise, contact your local waste removal company for instructions. Drain all the oil from your old filter and dispose of the filter in the trash.

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